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Speedball emulsion drying time12/20/2023 ![]() ![]() Start by running warm water on both sides of the screen to loosen the emulsion. Once your timer dings, turn off the light, remove your artwork and bring the screen to the sink. The next step will be to wash unexposed emulsion from the screen. When it runs down to about 1 minute, turn on the kitchen faucet and let the water warm up. Turn on your timer and hang out for a while. You can tape the acetate sheet down with clear tape if you don’t have glass or plastic, but make sure the image is flush with the screen or it could burn blurry. On top of that we place our acetate sheet and on top of the acetate place a clear piece of glass or heavy plastic. We want the side of the frame that has the screen attached placed flat onto the table. ![]() The acetate image is placed on the screen and a heavy plastic sheet is placed on top to prevent movement.Īfter everything has been set up, grab your screen from its dark hiding spot. My simple set-up: a 120W Equivalent Daylight (5000K) R40 CFL flood bulb in a clamp light reflector placed 12″ above the screen. Basic household bulbs are too weak to bother with, and the sun is too unpredictable. Different intensities of light will alter the exposure time, so I recommend using the light I’ve listed. ![]() Once the light is in place, set a timer for 12 minutes. Clamp the light 12″ above the table top and make sure it is pointed straight down, tilting it could create an uneven burn. Find a table where no animals or people will bump things around and prepare the area. A clamp light fitted with a powerful outdoor wall light works well for this process. Now that the screen has been prepared with photo emulsion, we are ready to burn our image. Once it’s dry to the touch I blast it with heat for a few more minutes just to be safe. You can lightly touch around the edges of the screen to see if the emulsion is tacky. If you chose to do this, be sure to dry both sides of the screen in a dark room. About 5-8 minutes is enough to dry out the emulsion fully (if it has been applied thinly). ![]() I use a blow dryer to dry the screen for immediate use. Remember, the emulsion is light sensitive, so prolonged exposure to excessive light will prevent you from burning your image properly. A fan blowing across the screen will speed up drying times. Put the screen in a dark, dry place where very little to no light will reach it. does anyone have any advice for the bubbles thing? and i think im gonan revert back to my 4 min exposure time that my step test produced.Screen flipped and emulsion applied evenly to the back side.Īfter the emulsion has been applied, it’s time to let the emulsion dry. It requires attention to the coated process, understanding a allgemein desiccation operations, and knowledge is the conditions that must is present in order to achieve. Screen drying involves more than just production sure emulsion has dry in the touch. WITH a pressure washer! that also ruined parts of my stencilĪnyway. Just like backing adenine cake, drying a screen requires that you follow a specific recipe. bits get removed that i need!īut also I tried peoples advice from here of using an exposure time of 6-8 mins on the emulsion. this then causes a few problems when trying to wash out the stencil. Hand drawn image printed by inkjet onto OHP sheet:ĬON: I dont know if its just the environment in which i let the screen dry (dusty?) but i get a lot of what look like lighter trapped bubble areas once its dry. i think the frame has warped due to bein washed so many times). (this was a test and I did mess up a couple of things. some clean crisp lines and going down to some fine details. PRO: i think (not 100% sure) that i have a 43T screen and I'm quite surprised and happy with the results I got during todays exposure. I'm using speedball diazo kit emulsion and a lot of people have said it's only really good for the hobbyist, but I am surprised at its capabilities. ![]()
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